Buy Motive Products Power Bleeder Fits early model American cars and trucksMotive Products Power Bleeder Fits early model American cars and trucks Product Description:
Product Description
Classic Car POWER BLEEDERTM Brake & Clutch System Bleeder Fits early model American cars and trucks Motive Products Classic Car POWER BLEEDERTM Bleeder features custom cap to fit most early model GM and Ford cars and trucks with internally threaded master cylinder reservoirs with 1 3/16" ID from the 1930s through the early 1960s. Includes MP1102 adapter with deluxe machined aluminum cap and brass swivel fitting. POWER BLEEDERTM Features: * Heavy duty 2 quart pressure tank holds enough fluid to do complete flush & bleed. * Built-in hand pump (no other pressure source is needed) * Precision pressure gauge ensures safe and effective operation. * Tested for compatibility with both standard and synthetic hydraulic fluids. All bleeders come with everything you need to bleed your hydraulic brake or clutch system and a full 1 year warranty.
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By Gregg
I bought this power bleeder specifically to bleed the brakes on a 1956 Chevrolet with the stock master cylinder. The adapter screwed right into the top of the master cylinder, and an O ring is used to seal the top. You need at least a quart of brake fluid in the Motive container, and perhaps a little more if the brake system is completely dry. The plastic line to the top of the Motive adapter is long, so I pumped up the pressure bottle slowly until the brake fluid was near the top of the clear plastic line, and then screwed it onto a nearly-topped off master cylinder. The master cylinder was not primed prior to doing this. You continue to pump the pressure bottle up to 10 psi on the gauge and then go to the farthermost wheel cylinder and start bleeding there first. You have to keep an eye on the 10 psi in the plastic pressure vessel, and pump it back up between wheel cylinders. Bleeding is not as fast as having someone pump up the brakes the old fashioned way, but it is considerably less messy. When you see a change in fluid color (rusty brown to clear), you're done with that wheel cylinder. I used a towel over the front fender to protect it from any line leaks (Motive plastic bottle to master cylinder) but there weren't any. I would suggest pumping the master brake cylinder once or twice while bleeding to make sure all the air comes out. I liked this complete unit (with the adapter) because other folks sell these separate for quite a bit more. This is definitely a one man product.
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